Hans Kraus (November 28, 1905 in Austria-Hungary until 6 March 1996 in New York City) - physician, physical therapist, mountain climber, and alpinist - was a pioneer of modern rock climbing, and became one of the fathers sports medicine and physical medicine and rehabilitation. Kraus was elected to the U.S. National Ski Hall of Fame in 1974.
Video Hans Kraus
Careers
Born in the future of the Italian nation, later part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire from 1867 to 1918, Kraus studied at a medical school in Vienna in 1920, contrary to his father's wishes, becoming an orthopedic surgeon. Through the next practice, he developed a philosophy of treatment that contradicted traditional medicine at the time. He will develop this method, called "direct mobilization", over his entire medical career. Passing his medical exam in New York, Kraus continues to develop unique methods of fracture treatment, applying it to all types of athletes. He became very popular among skiers.
In the 1950s, Kraus was behind the impetus by the Appalachian Mountain Club to organize climbing at Shawangunks, and installed a security code to prevent climbing accidents. This security code caused a conflict with Lester Germer and The Vulgarian, and was later abandoned.
Kraus warned Americans that children do not exercise enough and watch too much television. Together with Bonnie Prudden, he campaigned for better physical exercise programs for children, and wrote several books on sports, sports medicine, and physical therapy. Eisenhower championed Kraus and his campaign to get Americans to exercise. However, in 1957, it was clear that Kraus was unsuccessful. Kraus was widely opposed by AMA teachers and sports (who felt Kraus underestimated their leadership) and many Americans, such as Sports Illustrated reported in 1957, who feared that a mandatory training program for children would "Hitlerize American youth."
Kraus also continues to develop a unique approach to treat back pain in collaboration with other physicians, Sonja Weber. They developed an understanding of the underlying causes of back pain and designed Kraus-Weber tests (also called K-W tests) and exercises to relieve them.
Kraus is an Associate Professor at New York Downstate State University Medical Medicine University. His studies of children led to President Dwight D. Eisenhower establishing the Presidential Council on Fitness and Physical Sports. In October 1961, Kraus became re-doctor of the White House President Kennedy. Kennedy's back story has never been reported before, despite many speculations; but two other White House doctors Kraus and Kennedy have vowed to keep secrecy. In April 2006, more than ten years after Kraus's death, Kraus's widow donated White House medical records Kraus at Kennedy to Kennedy Library. They are now available to historians as well as the general public. In addition, some writers Susan E.B. The Schwartz tapes from Hans Kraus are also filed at the Kennedy Library and available for research.
Kraus's medical records show that at the time of Kennedy's death in Dallas, Kraus's therapy had almost made Kennedy backache for the rest of his life. White House medical records Kraus also contains some entries about Kennedy's rear corset, which he has been wearing since Harvard. Kraus noted that he had grown convinced that the corset was blocking Kennedy's recovery and that Kennedy should stop wearing it permanently. In October 1963, Kennedy told Kraus that he would stop wearing his bodice indefinitely beginning January 1964. Several prominent presidential historians, including James Reston and Robert Dallek, theorized that Kennedy might survive Dallas if he did not wear his corset.
She also treats other celebrities, including Arthur Godfrey and Katharine Hepburn.
Kraus maintains a multi-tier, elastic billing system; for climbers and people he knows personally, or anyone he thinks will be difficult to pay, he is not prosecuted; he charges partial payments for middle-class patients, and regular rates for wealthy and celebrity patients.
Maps Hans Kraus
Ascending
When a young man Kraus falls in love with the mountains, spend as much time as possible to climb and climb. In his teenage years, Hans learned to climb in the Dolomites. Among his friends and his accompanying partners are Emilio Comici and Gino SoldÃÆ'. He will then bring Dolomite techniques from high-angled face climbing to the United States
In 1940, he met Fritz Wiessner, who would become a lifelong friend and climbing companion. Wiessner had discovered Shawangunks in 1935 and together Kraus and Wiessner spent each day developing a route in the area. Wiessner is known for his amazing climbing techniques; Kraus's expertise is to climb up the aid. Thus, the climbing skills of two men complement each other. While both men enjoy climbing with women (especially with Bonnie Prudden, an accomplished climber on his own right), they continue to climb together, with often spectacular results. One of Kraus and Wiessner's most significant efforts in Gunks is the High Exposure , 5.6 thick that involves a blind range around the corner hanging 150 feet in the air; route still confuses beginner climber. Completed in 1941, with hemp rope and three soft iron pithons for protection, High Exposure is a world-class achievement. Kraus's other significant first climbs in the Gunks include: Northern Pillar 5.2 (The Trapps' first rock technical impulse: Three Pines 5.3, Horseman 5.5; Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst 5.6; Easy Overhang 5.2; Bitchy Virgin 5.7R ( first climb "R" in Shawangunks), and Emilio 5.7 (first aid haul in Gunks - Kraus and Wiessner using shoulder backs).
In the late 1940s, Shawangunks had fifty-eight documented ascending routes. 26 of these were the first ascent of Kraus; 23 by Wiessner.
Personal life
Kraus was born in Trieste at this time, Italy, which at that time was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire from 1867 to 1918 and taught English as a youth by James Joyce. In 1938 the Kraus family left Europe, just before World War II, this time to the United States. They settled in New York City. Kraus was not allowed to enlist in the US military because he was born in Trieste, which belonged to the Habsburg Empire at the time of Kraus's birth. Therefore, he is technically considered an "enemy alien", even though he is a legal immigrant, and a Jew. He became a US citizen in 1945.
One time in the late 1930s (a date not exactly known; pre-1938), Kraus married Susanne Simon. The marriage did not seem happy, and they parted ways in 1944 and divorced in the 1950s.
In 1951, Kraus became acquainted with Jim McCarthy, Princeton University bachelor and new climber. The two soon became fast friends and climbers, and McCarthy would become Kraus's personal lawyer.
In 1959, Kraus married Madi Springer-Miller, a championship skier and the first woman to ski "Lip" from Ravine Tuckerman in Mount Washington. They have two daughters, Ann and Mary.
In 1984 at the age of 79, Kraus stopped fully climbing, due to arthritis, and the cumulative effects of various injuries. His final ascent was Easy Overhang, the route he made his first ascent in 1941.
In 1995 Kraus was diagnosed with prostate cancer. She died peacefully on the morning of March 6, 1996 at her New York City apartment, holding her daughter's hand. The ashes are brought to High Exposure supported by an old friend and scattered into the air at the top.
Jobs List
Books
- Hypokinetic Diseases: Diseases Caused by Exercise Disadvantages' (1965, with Wilhelm Raab)
- Back Pain, Stress, and Tension, Cause, Prevention, and Treatment (1965)
- Causes, Prevention, and Treatment of Back Pain (1969)
- Clinical Treatment for Back and Neck Pain (1970)
- Causes, Prevention, and Treatment of Sports Injuries (1981)
- The Sports Injury Handbook (1987)
- Diagnosis and Treatment of Muscle Pain (1988)
- Back Pain, Stress, and Tension: Understanding Why You Have Back Pain and Simple Exercises to Prevent and Treat It (2015; Latest Edition)
- Clinical Treatment for Back and Neck Pain (1970)
Journal publication
- Kraus H & amp; Marcus NJ (1997) Release of an exercise program to directly treat muscular lower back pain, Journal of Back and Musculoskeletal Rehabilitation 8 (2): 95-107. [Pubmed]
References
External links
- Short biography of Hans Kraus
Source of the article : Wikipedia
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